Beco do Batman - Sao Paulo Brazil

Originally Written September 2022, Revised July 2023

Whenever I travel, I add two additional steps to my pre-travel process:

1. Learn about the culture

2. Look for potential fan culture experiences

The first step is usually focused on practical maters (currency, language, potential culture shock moments, etc). The second step is where I look for unique experiences that connect with fan culture. It could be a comic book store, a convention, an art installation. I was pleasantly surprised with the offerings available in Sao Paulo, Brazil.

Even before I landed at Sao Paulo's international airport, I had my first fan culture moment. The call letters for the airport GRU obviously call to mind the 'master/leader' of the Minions from the popular Despicable Me franchise. As I was collecting my baggage I jokingly thought, 'I wonder if the marketing team took advantage of this coincidence'. And sure enough, they did - look at these luggage carts! I didn't take the time to search the whole airport but who knows there could have also been a fun Minions themed kids play area or public art installation.

Once settled at my hotel, I decided to go exploring and found my way to Ibirapuera Park. This park is massive and a fantastic place to spend the day outdoors but be sure not miss its unique museums. The Sao Paulo Museum of Modern Art which was smaller than expected but worth the visit for its diverse collection of powerful art including the art of Marcelo D'Salete. D'Salete is a lecturer, illustrator of children's books, researcher in Afro-Brazilian history and creator of graphic novels. In 2018, he received the Eisner Award and Jabuti Award. You can see the influence of photography and cinema in his work as he brings past history to life.

Just outside the museum, people of all ages were roller skating and wandering through the sculpture park.

Nearly all of my photos from Sao Paulo have art in them and its not just because I like art. Public art is EVERYWHERE in Sao Paulo - businesses, highways, homes - and it captivates. Its easier to see and appreciate this art because of the 2006 Lei Cidade Limpa (Clean City Law) that prohibited all outdoor advertising. Although the law was controversial, 15,000 billboards were taken down and the results are astounding. Besides being able to see the amazing architecture this city holds, it led to a re-evaluation of street art, its importance and its contributions to the city. In some cases, real social issues were uncovered because they were previously physically covered by billboards (shantytowns, human rights violations, etc).

One of the best places to see public street art in Sao Paulo is in Beco do Batman (Batman Alley). This alley and its adjacent streets are well known for its ever changing street art. The name is said to have come from the original artists having painted Batman on the alley walls in the 1980s (no, its not because this is where the Wayne family was killed, geez people). The weekend I was there, there happened to be a street festival so many of the artists were vending in the streets, galleries were open later and live music was playing. Such a fantastically funky vibe and scene! I went again later in the week and without the festival going on, you could really take in the full art experience as a true outdoor art gallery.

I would love the opportunity to research Batman Alley further - its impact on local business and its history. Coming from a 'western society' that uses fan culture primarily to sell movie tickets, toys and clothing, I was trained to think that way (i.e. - would there be a Gru tie in at the GRU airport) but upon leaving, I felt refreshed and rejuvenated by all the street art and lack of constant advertising. I have always known that fan culture does wonders for the expression of self, cultural identity, history and more but until visiting Sao Paulo, I hadn't seen it happening in such an organic and natural way.

Have you been to Batman Alley? What were your impressions?

Do you want to see more of my photos and videos from Sao Paulo? Be sure to check my Instagram and TikTok accounts.

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